Muncie issue

[Too Many Projects]

Actually it isn't unusual for the tires to turn in this situation. I would drop it on the floor and see if you feel/sense any drag from rpm change. That will give you a feel for if it is difficult to get in gear and where the clutch starts to engage for further adjustment.

[Big Block Bill]

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects

Actually it isn't unusual for the tires to turn in this situation. I would drop it on the floor and see if you feel/sense any drag from rpm change. That will give you a feel for if it is difficult to get in gear and where the clutch starts to engage for further adjustment.

X-2 Give it an 1" of free play and if everything is good, you should be good to go. Bill

[Andy]

Originally Posted by Big Block Bill

X-2 Give it an 1" of free play and if everything is good, you should be good to go. Bill

Good deal, thanks for the input gentlemen. I've learned a lot through this project!

[Andy]

I'm tackling the starter bolt situation now and I've read that the GM 12338064/Dorman 678-107 bolt is the solution for "mini" starters since the bolt has a 10mm shank and knurl for the starter, and a smaller 3/8" knurl for the block so that it locates correctly. I will say that the knurling on the new bolt definitely provides a much tighter fit on the starter but, it appears that the bolt is sticking too far out of the starter, especially the larger knurling that engages the starter. I ran one of the bolts up by hand through the starter, into the block, and it stopped about 1/4"-5/16" before the machined face of the starter would contact the block. I do not want to damage the block by using the wrong bolt. I took some pictures of the bolt as it is installed in the starter and various other dimensions. Have any of you guys ran into this? Ideas? Should I junk this starter and get a GM type mini starter for a early 90s Corvette? It had a 153 tooth flywheel like my car does.

*under head bolt length- 4.31"
*knurl diameter on bolt for starter- .398"
*knurl diameter on bolt for block- .371"
*distance from machined face of starter to end of knurl for block engagement- .378"
*thickness of starter flange- 3.110"

[Too Many Projects]

Couple things I see, 1 is the larger diameter knurl appears to be engaging the block, is it binding and causing the bolt to stop turning. 2. The end 3 threads appear to be packing dirt/oil/crap into the hole and may be stopping the bolt from turning. I "think" the outer starter hole is machine all the way thru and could be tapped further, if the threads stop short. I would run a tap into the block and see if it will clean out junk in a couple threads and allow the bolt to go in further. I would, also, test that larger knurl to see if it is causing a bind and file it down to fit. If all that comes out good, but the bolt still stops short, you can cut 3/8" off the bolt and still have plenty of thread to hold the starter.

[Andy]

Mitch,

Thanks for the suggestions. I ran a tap through and cleaned the threads with brake clean. I found the issue, just didn't look closely enough the first time. When I put the correct knurled bolt in, it shifted the starter slightly inward toward the oil pan rail. The relief cut into the starter mounting flange that was supposed to clear the oil pan rail was not enough once the starter shifted over that small amount. I took it off, filed it, and it went right on. To test the proper engagement of the knurl in the block, I was able to use one washer under the head of the bolt and that was enough to compensate for that section of 10mm knurling that protruded past the starter mounting flange. I have access to a tool and die shop here at work so I will have them turn a small section off the knurling on the bolt and I should be good to go.

I drove the car through the neighborhood yesterday, and I have to adjust the clutch some more as the engagement point is too close to the floor pan. It's getting close to being back on the road now!

[Too Many Projects]

Good to see you are making progress. Extending the rod to the fork 1/4" will raise the pedal engagement point off the floor. Free play at the top should still be 1-2 inch, but I always adjust mine to a comfortable engagement at the bottom.