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#1
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![]() I had a problem with a floor that was pored in the winter. They added Calcium to keep the concrete from freezing. The finish started blistering a few months later. If your floor was poured in the winter it will have to sealed before coating it. I am finding this out the Hard Way….
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Kentucky Gold 70 SS/RS L78. 81 Z/28 Silver/Silver Int 09 G8/GXP #992 98 Pontiac GTP Daytona Pace Car #605 90 Olds Touring Sedan SUPRCHRGD L32 83 El Camino |
#2
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I think Rustoleum makes a sealer. I was planning on using it just in case. I'm thinking about a fairly light color and putting some of the colored flecks in it. I would like to do a dark color but they just don't reflect enough like when you are under a car. Do they?
My garage floor has been poured for about two months and I won't have it painted until May. I'll give it plenty of time before putting a car on it. I'm putting in two lifts and I'm thinking about painting it before installing the lifts. Or maybe I should put the lifts in first??
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99 HOSS HT 02 SS Blk 1LE A4 02 **** ZL1 Phase II+ 02 SS 23mi. 500 ci |
#3
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Just be careful slididn the lifts around or throwing around the steel when it gets installed. Did you happen to use the fiber re-inforced concrete ?? That would stop the problems with spalling that 70 L78 is having...
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Don't mess with old farts - age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill! Bullshit and brilliance only come with age and experience. |
#4
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[ QUOTE ]
I'm putting in two lifts and I'm thinking about painting it before installing the lifts. Or maybe I should put the lifts in first?? [/ QUOTE ] If you are getting your basic four post lifts, most come with wheels to roll them around for positioning. As long as your driveway is level, you can assemble them in the driveway and then roll them into position. I would finish the floor before putting in the lifts, and roll them in over some cardboard to their final resting place.
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#5
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I have used ucoat it on three different occasions.
Blue, red and gray. all with the urethane top coat. the most important thing is prep. if it is new concrete it must be cured for at least 30 days they say....i think 90 is better, or even a year. any oil or grease stains must be removed first. then you must etch the slab with muriatic acid. one had anti slip(aluminum oxide), the other had u-flecks, and the third had no additive. i didnt like the aluminum oxide....it made sweeping to difficult. the u flecks were better. it isnt too slippery wet with the uflecks or anti slip, but if you have snow on your boots you WILL slip regardless. that is the only thing i dont like, the snow. other than that it looks great... my dogs paws and nails leave what looks like swirl marks on the top coat though...maybe i didnt let it cure enough.. |
#6
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Shor, do you think ucoatit is better than Rustoleum? What color did you use?
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