Pure Stock Drag Racing tips & tricks

**YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY** · #1 11-26-2002, 03:32 PM

Rob & Pete;
Is there a place to go on the net to find out the various tips and tricks that have been attempted in order to extract the best ET, MPH and traction from a pure stocker? I have a few theories that I'd like to try, but if someone else has already tested them I'd be interested in their results. I know most guys don't readily share this type of info, but a Deuce is much slower than the BB's so I wouldn't be posing a threat [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

COPO PETE · #2 11-26-2002, 05:01 PM

[img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img]
[img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/smirk.gif[/img]
I'm sorry, could you repeat the question???????
Peter

**YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY** · #3 11-26-2002, 05:29 PM

Ok! I'll be a little more specific [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

Does the Pertronix ignition conversion perform better than the points/condenser?

If you put spring clamps on the rear leafs, do you put a clamp at the end of each leaf? Do you put them before the axle, after the axle or both?

Is it better to put strong shocks on the front or worn out ones in order to allow more travel, and therefore more weight transfer? Do worn out shocks on the rear allow for more weight transfer or do they contribute to spring wrap and wheel-hop?

[img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/confused.gif[/img]

Seattle Sam · #4 11-26-2002, 06:57 PM

Marlin,

Does the Pertronix ignition conversion perform better than the points/condenser? - Yes, it gives you more reliable spark at high RPM.

If you put spring clamps on the rear leafs, do you put a clamp at the end of each leaf? Do you put them before the axle, after the axle or both? - In front of the axle, it makes the springs act like traction bars. If they are worn, put in some new spring eye bushings while you're at it.

Is it better to put strong shocks on the front or worn out ones in order to allow more travel, and therefore more weight transfer? Do worn out shocks on the rear allow for more weight transfer or do they contribute to spring wrap and wheel-hop? - Soft in the front, stiff in the rear. You want the front to rise up for weight transfer, but you do not want the rear to squat. If the body is squatting down over the rear axle, it is unloading the rear wheels.

Hope that helps!
-Sam

Chevy454 · #5 11-26-2002, 09:42 PM

M:

The Pertronix is just "ok" in my eyes. Yeah, you don't have to mess with points, but we've had a couple of BOTH versions go out on us. FYI, we ran points up until last year, when I went ahead and went back to Pertronix. I am currently entertaining "other" ignition options, one of which is the new Crane ignition conversion unit, which includes a built in rev limiter (4k-8k).

As for the spring clamps & shocks, Sam hit it right on the head. BUT, I did some testing with a st of 90/10s on the front and couldn't tell a difference than the set of "run of the mill" shocks we had on. Maybe if we were running a decent stall and decent tires, then the 90/10s might be helpful. This might be different on a manual car, but I seriously doubt the little tires will handle much of a shock. Just my thoughts...

Oh, as for your "Pure Stock information exchange", it's slim pickings, except for the Pure Stock board and here. So, how about those "theories"?

COPO PETE · #6 11-27-2002, 03:13 AM

Marlin, Don't even talk to me if your not running the stock over the counter camshaft! My theory is GM spent millions developing these motors and shafts to run with manifolds, and if you put on headers, they would respond well, but they work well with manifolds. I've had so many guys ask me what shaft I'm running and I tell them. Then were at the track and their car is not doing the number, only to find out they put a "little " bigger one in or the 30/30 shaft. Bigger is not always better! Don't dick with the center line and put some over lap in it as you will lose some very important compression. Shift at 6000 rpm, not 5900 and not 6100 rpm.
I've had good luck with Protronix. Get the old style, as new one has some problems still.
My Nova is stock and unrestored. As in original springs front and rear, with UAP NAPA 50/50 shocks on all corners. I do put two clamps on each side ahead of the spring, mostly to help not spit a driveshaft.
Exhaust is very important. 2 1/2 inch mandrel all the way. My Nova currently has kinky 2 1/4, which is costing me close to 2 tenths.
Put in new body mounts, poly urathane is best. I currently have the original cracked ones in it, gotta change it. Brand new rubber is good also and won't flex much.
Run as close to 11:1 as possible, JE pistons are much better than the TRW I have. Likely only about 10:1 if measured.
In your case, save your original M21 and put in a M20 if your gunna bang on it. That's good for 2 tenths.
If I take my own advice here, I'm sure on E70-14's I can get a 12.80 out of it, maybe even a 12.70. Time will tell. Now get to work!!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
Peter

**YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY** · #7 11-27-2002, 12:31 PM

Hmmmm!
Thanks for the tips. I have the Mallory under-cap conversion in my car now, seems ok but I won't know till I run it up in RPM. I have only revved the engine to 5500 so far.

My cam should be ok, I didn't put the exact cam in because I don't like Crane cams so I put an equivelant Comp Cams in. The M20 is a quicker trans, but the COPO Nov's came with the M21 so I really can't be changing that! I have a Gardner system on my car with the krinkle bends, twin resonators etc...

I guess I will just have to tune it the best I can, and run it to get a baseline! I'd be happy if it ran as well as Neal's red deuce, 13.7's in the heat, 13.5's on a cool evening.

Chevy454 · #8 11-27-2002, 12:38 PM

M:

I hope you have better luck with your cam decision than I did. Against someone's advice, I went with something other than the GM (Crane) cam and it came in way short. I the stood back and watched a GM cam spec right on the money...live an learn!

**YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY** · #9 11-27-2002, 12:50 PM

Rob;
I know, I have heard both sides of the Crane Cam story. I never built an engine before the deuce's, so I had to weigh all the stories that I had heard. Neal has had good luck with the Comp's so that's what I went with.

I also used the TRW pistons, 11:1's, because I figured they were the stock ones. If I could do it over again, I'd use JE's after hearing your experiences with the TRW's.

Oh well, I'll wait till spring, and see if I can get it to the track. Doing a little drag racing with the Yenko is the last part of my goal with this project. What good is a Yenko car if it looks pretty, but doesn't run the number [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

COPO PETE · #10 11-27-2002, 04:10 PM

Neils had good luck with his comp cam???????? When he was running his big block, for two years he kept asking me, "what cam?". I'd tell him, "go to GM and order the real deal. Finally after the Ohio race, he was frustrated and asked again. I gave him the same answer. He tried to get me drunk on Canadian beer to see if I would change my answer. First off, never try and get a Canadian drunk on Canadian beer and try and stay with him drink for drink. He would'nt remember if I told a different answer anyway! The following week he finally put in the GM L78 cam from gm. First pass was 2 tenths and 3 mph quicker than the car ever ran!!!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] I expect the same difference on his small block!
Peter